In January of 2020, I participate in Emre Ozbay memorial Ice Climbing Festival in Erzurum in the East of Turkey. The waterfalls were many, Ice conditions were excellent, while the air wasn’t cold. Actually, it was possible to climb rocks (lots of them) in climbing shoes on sunny faces.
Архивы рубрик:English
Bektau-Ata: hundreds of boulders and dozens of cracks in the middle of Kazakhstan
At the end of September 2020 Olga Belotserkovskaya, Valera Alekseev, Zhora Berezikov, Pavel Gryaznov, Camille London and I made a trip to a place called Bektau-Ata in Central Kazakhstan. It’s a granite massif 70 km to the north of Lake Balkhash, one of the largest lakes in Asia. Dozens and dozens of grotesque-shaped boulders are located …
Читать далее «Bektau-Ata: hundreds of boulders and dozens of cracks in the middle of Kazakhstan»
New hard route on Mt Trud in Kazakhstan
On May 28, together with Grisha Chsukin, I climbed a new route on the west face of peak Trud. We graded it 1200m WI5 M6 6b or Russian 5B. Trud located in Talgar massif in Almaty Natural Reserve. Which, in turn, located near to Almaty—the biggest city of Kazakhstan. At 4973m, Talgar is the biggest …
Tuyuk-Su map
Few years ago I drew a map of Tuyuk-Su area. From that, I annually roll up updates. Usually, I update Russian version first, so if you are comfortable with it check out Tuyuk-Su map in Russian. There are some minor differences from the English version. Feel free to use it for your trips and non-commercial …
Baintha Brakk WII 6540m, NE Buttress, attempt
On the long west-northwest ridge of Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. Ogre, 7,265m) lie several impressive summits, including Baintha Brakk West (6,660m) and Baintha Brakk West II (6,540m). Max Ten and I had the latter as our goal for the summer of 2018. We approached up the Biafo Glacier, making base camp at Karpogoro (4,680m) and advanced …
Читать далее «Baintha Brakk WII 6540m, NE Buttress, attempt»
Two new routes on the north face of Ordzhonikidze, 4410 m
The Zayliyskiy Alatau (also sometimes spelled Zaylyiskiy, Zailiiskii, or Zalisky) is the most northerly part of the Tien Shan, and the Tuyuk-Su subrange—the mountains around the Tuyuk-Su Valley—are easily accessed from Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest city. Near the entrance to the valley lies Chimbulak (Shymbulak) ski resort. It’s my home range: I work as a mountain …
Читать далее «Two new routes on the north face of Ordzhonikidze, 4410 m»