Bektau-Ata: hundreds of boulders and dozens of cracks in the middle of Kazakhstan

At the end of September 2020 Olga Belotserkovskaya, Valera Alekseev, Zhora Berezikov, Pavel Gryaznov, Camille London and I made a trip to a place called Bektau-Ata in Central Kazakhstan. It’s a granite massif 70 km to the north of Lake Balkhash, one of the largest lakes in Asia. Dozens and dozens of grotesque-shaped boulders are located …

New hard route on Mt Trud in Kazakhstan

On May 28, together with Grisha Chsukin, I climbed a new route on the west face of peak Trud. We graded it 1200m WI5 M6 6b or Russian 5B. Trud located in Talgar massif in Almaty Natural Reserve. Which, in turn, located near to Almaty—the biggest city of Kazakhstan. At 4973m, Talgar is the biggest …

Baintha Brakk WII 6540m, NE Buttress, attempt

On the long west-northwest ridge of Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. Ogre, 7,265m) lie several impressive summits, including Baintha Brakk West (6,660m) and Baintha Brakk West II (6,540m). Max Ten and I had the latter as our goal for the summer of 2018. We approached up the Biafo Glacier, making base camp at Karpogoro (4,680m) and advanced …

Two new routes on the north face of Ordzhonikidze, 4410 m

The Zayliyskiy Alatau (also sometimes spelled Zaylyiskiy, Zailiiskii, or Zalisky) is the most northerly part of the Tien Shan, and the Tuyuk-Su subrange—the mountains around the Tuyuk-Su Valley—are easily accessed from Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest city. Near the entrance to the valley lies Chimbulak (Shymbulak) ski resort. It’s my home range: I work as a mountain …

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